Choskhor Valley (Bumthang)
Jampa Lhakhang: Jampa Lhakhang was built by Tibetan King Sontsen
Gampo in 659 to pin down a demoness who was obstructing the
spread of Buddhism in the Himalayan region. Kiychu Lhakhang in
Paro was started on the same day and also helped pin down the
demoness. Guru Rimpoche visited this site. Sindu Raja renovated
the lhakhang after Guru Rimpoche restored his life force. Under
the lhakhang there is a lake where Guru Rimpoche hid termas.
There is an alcove above the front door with an image of Guru
Rimpoche who meditated here and left a footprint. In October the
Jampa Lhakhang Drup is held here. This is one of Bhutan’s most
colourful festivals.
Chakar Lhakhang: The Iron Castle is built on the site of Sindhu
Raja’s palace. Sindhu Raja first invited Guru Rimpoche to Bhutan
to exorcise a demon that was plaguing him. The current building
was built by the saint Dorje Lingpa in the 14th century.
Kurjey Lhakhang: Kurjey Lhakhang is named after the body print (
kurjey) of Guru Rimpoche found in a cave inside one of the
oldest buildings. The first temple, the oldest was built is
1652. Below the roof is a white lion with a garuda above it.
Guru Rimpoche manifested as a garuda to defeat the demon
Shelging Karpo who had taken the form of a white lion. There is
a small opening leading to a small cave. If one can negotiate
the entrance and enter the cave one’s sins are washed away. The
upper sanctuary is the most sacred. Behind the largest Guru
Rimpoche image is his meditation cave with his bodyprint. The
Kurjey Tsechu is held in June featuring masked dances depicting
the Guru’s defeat of Shelging Karpo. A large thanka of Guru
Rimpoche and his 8 manifestations is unfurled before the dances.
Do Zam: Do Zam is the site of a bridge built by a goddess trying
to vist Guru Rimpoche. The bridge was destroyed by a demon.
Tamshing Goemba: Tamshing Goemba (The Temple of the Good
Message) is the most important Nyingma Goemba in Bhutan and was
founded by Pema Lingpa in 1501. The saint built the goemba with
the help of khandroms (angels). The paintings on the inner walls
were painted by Pema Lingpa. An important image of Guru Rimpoche
made by khandroms is found here. This statue is unique as the
Guru is barefoot.
Konchogsum Lhakhang: Konchogsum Lhakhang dates to the 6th or 7th
century. Pema Lingpa restored the lhakhang in the 15th century.
A large, ancient bell which could be heard in Lhasa used to sit
on the pedestal in the courtyard. In the 17th century the bell
was cracked when a Tibetan army tried to steal it. The bell is
now kept in the lhakhang. Pema Lingpa revealed termas from the
hill behind the goemba and from a lake under the lhakhang. The
three small Buddha images (past,present,future) in the sanctuary
are said to have flown here from Khaine Lhakhang in Kurtoe. The
name Konchogsum is derived from konchog- divine being, and
sum-three.
Pema Sambhava Lhakhang: Pema Sambhava Lhakhang was built in 1490
by Pema Lingpa around the cave where Guru Rimpoche meditated and
manifested as Padmasambhava. The lhakhang was renovated in the
1970s.
Tang Valley: The upper region of Tang
Valley is a beyul or
“hidden valley” sealed by Yeshe Chhogyal, Guru Rimpoche’s
consort. Tang Valley is the most remote of Bumthang’s valleys.
About 10 km from Jakar a small chorten marks Pema Lingpa’s
birthplace Drangchel.
Membartsho (The Burning Lake): Membartsho is not a lake, but a
wide spot on the Tang Chhu. Pema Lingpa revealed several termas
hidden by Guru Rimpoche here. From the wooden bridge one might
catch a glimpse of the temple in the river. A large rock
features carvings of Pema Lingpa and his two sons. Below the
rock is a small cave that virtuous people can enter regardless
of their size.
Kunzangdra Goemba: Kuzangdrak Goemba is a two hour walk above
Drangchel. Kuzangdrak is one of the most important sites related
to Pema Lingpa. Construction started in 1488. The goemba houses
many important relics including a guilded stone with Pema
Lingpa’s footprint. One of the four buildings Khandroma Lhakhang
was built against the cliff face with the help of khandroms.
Holy water seeps from the cliff face.
Tang Rimochen Lhakhang: Tang Rimochen Lhakhang is a sacred place
of Guru Rimpoche. A rock in front of goemba bears a body print
of the Guru and two khandroms. The site is named after the tiger
stripe markings on the cliff. Footprints of the Guru and his
consorts Mandarava and Yeshe Chhogyal are found below the
lhakhang. Two large boulders nearby are said to be male and
female jachungs (garudas).
Towada Goemba: Towada Goemba is situated high above the north
end of the Tang Valley and was founded by Mandarava. The Guru is
believed to have meditated here. The goemba was built by Pema
Lingpa and carved right into the rock. There are many small
meditation caves on the hillside above. The region is said to
have been sealed as a beyul (hidden valley) by Guru Rimpoche’s
consort Yeshe Chhogyal.
